By Paul MANSFIELD; 13 April 2002 

A cave of one's own The troglodyte community in Cappadocia is as fascinating as the surrounding landscape, says Paul Mansfield. IN the Anatolian village of Ayvali the day starts early. At sunrise there's a wake-up call from the muezzin in the village mosque.

An hour or so after daylight the villagers are already going about their business. Women in headscarves and traditional dresses bring loaves of bread up to the communal oven. There's a pile of pumpkin rinds in the main square, their seeds been removed for sale. A villager is sifting a pan of dried white beans. By the time I get back to the Hotel Gamirasu after my morning walk, breakfast has been laid out, and a glass of apple tea is waiting.