SPRING 2002 GETTING OFFSHORE / MEDITERRANEAN
Elisabeth Light meets a charming bigamist in the caves of Cappadocia
The donkey that lives in the cave across the stream trumpets the dawn in a loud bray. He cohabits with a cow, and at seven a woman, wearing trousers that are so baggy they look like skirt, sets a pail beneath the cow and milks it. Nearby, her two little boys play on a stone bridge that dates from Roman times. When she has finished, she leads the donkey and cow up the cobbled road to a pasture for the day's grazing. I am propped up by pillows in a warm bed watching all this trough the lace curtains if my cave in the Gamirasu Cave Hotel. Eight hundred years ago there was a monastery here, but in caves carved out of soft volcanic rock. My hotel has been built on the ancient site. Guests of the hotel dine in the same cave as the original monks and sleep in adjoining caves, but in modern comfort...
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